This high-pressure, hot gas erodes the surface of the valve and seat, leading to what is called burnt valves.īurnt valves don't seal tight, so the condition compounds itself. If a valve doesn't seal tight, a small amount of hot combustion gases will escape. I removed the head from my F to find mildly burnt valves, with the exhaust being a little worse than the intakes, as I would have expected with my neglect of them. Someone has since told me he adjusted his exhaust valves without pulling the manifold, but he admitted space was really tight.
I had adjusted the intake valves about a year before, but didn't do the exhaust valves because I didn't dare pull the exhaust manifold on account of the badly rusted studs and nuts. Anyone else with knowledge is welcome to jump in and correct me or fill in the thin places. But I have lapped my valves with considerable benefit, so for those of you that are unfamiliar with the process, let me explain. I assume many of you know more than I do about auto mechanics, and this is frequently borne out by responses to my posts and other notes. I didn't take auto shop in high school, and while other guys were fixing up their 57 Chevy's, I was singing in the choir, taking advanced math, and in general being a nerd except lettering in track. Richard Grover wrote: I readily admit, I'm no 53-709 kamehameha hwy mechanic. With some research, you might find that they fit the Jeeps too. They have a NAPA parts list for some surprisingly cheap parts readily available for K-F-Willys cars if you know the right part number to ask for-after all, K-F-W bought a lot of parts from other suppliers rather than produce them themselves. I would keep that engine you have if for nothing more then maintaining your Grandfather's legacy and with a little patience and research, you should be able to find the correct parts for it. Wouldn't that look cool in your Wagon, eh? I have an exploded pictorial of the engine assembly, I scan it and send it to you if you like. Kaiser engines didn't interchange from '51 to '54 so I believe these to be different then the ' Also, rebuild kit numbers are different between the Willys 6 and Kaiser-Frazer 6's. These numbers should have been located on a pad on the left front corner of engine block and on a plate on left side of the block.
#NITRO PRO 9 SERIAL NUMBER SERIAL NUMBERS#
It appears you have a transplant form a Frazer car of Kaiser-Frazer as those engine serial numbers started in '50 at F-M "K" prefix for Kaiser, "F" for Fraser. Unbelievably, I have a '58 Chiltons manual. You'll have to be patient with us as we're all here to learn biju menon wife age well.
Prices are pretty much the same so support the hobby guys if you can. NAPA also has them, as well as most fork truck dealers. Walck's and Mendetz have all the parts you need. The only response I have found was in answer to Joseph Dante who had a similar question regarding his CJ2A and about 40 messages about the difference between left and right hand threads NOW, can I possibly get some serious answers regarding the information I have to give the folks at the parts counters when I ask for a re-build kit for the beast?īernie Daily responded: If your engine is a flathead six with the distributor sticking right up through the head, it is the Continental 6, the L, same as the Kaiser.
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